Being a bit grumpy was expected with a 3am arrival in Barcelona and having to check out at 10am…which I stretched to 11am with a very late shower. I finished up some downloading and fixing things with the new version of Windows on my tablet. What's great about getting in so late? Not too much but I did get a taxi instead of riding the metro with my many bags which is always a fun sweaty situation that makes me and the other passengers uncomfortable :).
The hostel in Barcelona was very nice and I returned there before leaving Spain. My day in Barcelona I spent seeing the
. Churches in general are pretty unimpressive to me at this point. But like in
, this was a different experience entirely. While you tour the place, they are building it. That's cool but the design is just breathtaking in so many ways. All you can do is look up. There are two major facades, one depicting the nativity and the other the passion. So much more interesting than mosaic images in stained glass. This was my first clue that I was in a different place. The Baroque, Gothic, Rococo architecture that governs most of the great sights in Europe, aren't the same here. Spain: you are not in Kansas anymore. AND I LOVE IT.
In Madrid I again arrived a couple hours later than expected and spent the day walking around the city visiting the Palace and
Cathedral, the Plaza Mayor, and a very cool tapas food court (
Mercado San Miguel). Madrid is an interesting place. During the day I didn't see hardly anyone, I saw more people in Barcelona so I wasn't sure what was up. But if you come out at 10pm everyone is there, in the streets at bars and eating dinner. Yes, the Spanish keep a different schedule. They work from 9am to 2pm and then go home for lunch (a big meal) and turn on the TV for a nap (30min max) and return to work by 4 or 5pm and work till about 7pm. Then there's a few hours of relaxing at home before going out around 9 or 10 for dinner. Pub crawls didn't even begin until 1am. I saw many travelers hanging out indoors (with AC) on their electronic devices. I think we're all at the point where doing Europe in the summer is exhausting us, and this Spanish schedule is a nice change since the heat also intensifies after 1pm and won't cool off till after 6pm.
 |
| Almudena Cathedral |
 |
| Almudena Cathedral |
 |
| Almudena Cathedral |
 |
| Plaza Mayor |
 |
| Plaza Mayor |
I joined a tapas tour with the hostels in the area and we visited about four different bars to complete the walking tapas dinner (which is typical). I hadn't had that much to drink in some time…and I didn't even drink everything they gave us. I think I missed out on a couple beers. I met many people that night, a guy from Mexico, a few Canadians, another Kiwi (New Zealand), a woman from Holland, a guy from Manchester, and some fellow Americans too. We all remarked that the tapas we got out that night was less elegant than the tapas we would get at home (or even the Mercado San Miguel). It really is just food to keep you from getting drunk…potatoes in a sauce, some beef mixed in, bread with jambon (ham) or salmon on it or some pickles/olives. Nothing to write home about, but that's the real deal. I prefer our fancy version where everything is just a little different (ie the Roquefort Croquette or cheese filled peppadews).
My last day in Madrid I was on a mission. I had to find a new pack. I discovered back in Milan that it really has to be my pack that is causing me to need at least a day to recover after traveling. My back was getting a workout and the pack and case for flying was adding an addition 6 pounds (almost 3 kilos). I didn't know this when I asked for mom to send it over, I assumed that if I couldn't make that pack work it was my fault. But I googled and found the weight of the pack finally on an old REI listing from when the bag was still in production. Like most things today, seven years is a long time and especially in the outdoor gear market, a lot has changed. I left both my Kelty 80L bag and my Kelty 28L bag behind since they were proving uncomfortable and unhelpful. I finally found a nice little store where two great young ladies helped me out. I super wanted an Osprey bag but they kept staring at me asking "why?" I have seen so many people with them I thought it was the sure thing. But as they told me, Osprey has good marketing, Deuter has good bags. And this made sense to me, if all else fails you should go with the German model right? And then they showed me a gray one and I was all in.
I still had a duffel of all the extra stuff I'd acquired since mom left and all the summer clothes I kept for these last three sweltering weeks in Europe. I am heading soon to South America where it is fall and I will not be able to wear shorts, tank tops and dresses as I have to now. But the backpack I have now fits like a dream and I only have a fraction of the back fatigue I did with the old pack. I am sticking with a 40L pack from now on (plus a small tote/daypack).
I left Madrid for Seville in the afternoon and when I arrived (ON TIME--Holy moly!) I realized the directions I had to the hostel were impossible given the timetables of the buses up in the station. The stop they wanted me to take wasn't even a stop for any bus line. Confused and tired, I just hopped in a taxi (remembering Rick Steves and his guides advice on Spain's taxis being great and cheap). Very quickly I was being fingerprinted (yes, fingerprint entry to rooms, you no longer need a key deposit or to worry about forgetting your key) and talking with a Kiwi (New Zealander) who'd been traveling in Europe for almost a whole year. When I got to my room I was greeted by each person with an exuberant and smiling "hi." They laughed a bit because it was nine Koreans and me--it was a lot less uncomfortable because they had a sense of humor about it too.
The Kiwi gent helped me map out things to do in town and I found that I loved this city and wished I could vacation there often. It's a smaller city with great sights. As the Kiwi mentioned, he believes the
Alcazar to be the most beautiful castle in all of Europe and I have to say he's pretty right as far as I can tell. It's just amazing. Andalucia (the region of Spain containing Seville) is one of those historical crossroads between Islam and Christianity so the design of the palace (still in use today by the royal family) is stunning with triple archways, 12-point star filled ceilings and gardens well integrated into the building. It's less gaudy (hahaha, since Gaudi (Barcelona) is the origin of this term) and more elegant, I think.
The cathedral was less overwhelming but still beautiful. It's the third biggest in the world and the only time I climbed a bell tower with ramps instead of stairs. Highlights include the gorgeous courtyard with orange trees and Christopher Columbus' tomb.
 |
| View of the city from the top |
From there I wandered out to the shopping streets to see if I could find something I mistakenly didn't buy in the Madrid train station, no luck finding it though. I went back to the hostel for a sandwich and beer lunch while I updated expenses and such. Then I had an appointment for one of the best spa experiences of my life.
Aire is a company that has a handful of locations including New York. Seville was the flagship location and it is absolutely perfect. They had a simple online reservation system that let me make the reservation the night before. I signed up to have an hour in the baths and a 45 minute massage. I started with a massage and it was phenomenal. I needed it after all the backpack trauma and all the walking…I always forget how tight my calves can get too. Then I was loosed on a few warm pools, a rooftop pool reserved for people who had massages (wish I had a camera for that), a salt pool which I could not stay submerged in--we really do float more in salt water, then the traditional hot pool and cold dip for circulation and the eucalyptus sauna which was too potent to even keep your eyes open--that section lasted a total of 1 minute for me and less for the couple after me.
Best money I've spent, best bath/spa experience because they walk you through all the steps in person--you are not confused or self-conscious about anything and they have tea (hot and cold) and water always if want a break. If you have the chance, do it. Just pack your swimsuit--they'll make you wear cute little gripper slippers and a robe and they provide the towels too.
I went to the nearest Mailboxes, Etc. via tram and had all the extra summer clothing sent home (my sixth package if you count the one I sent mom home with on the plane). I was doing pretty good with shopping or so I thought, but I'm still tackling that demon bit by bit. She'll love this one because it is covered in packing tape. Seems anything sent via Fedex gets this treatment overseas. Then I stopped at Starbucks for an iced coffee (it really is terrible coffee I realize now) and an egg sandwich (this is so rare in Europe unless you go to McDonalds or Starbucks) and a salad. I'm marveling at my creativity in using the small vinaigrette bottle as a way to get rid of a large lotion bottle so I can hopefully take my luggage as a carry on from this point forward.
I headed back to Barcelona so that I could catch my ferry over to Italy. I did a walking tour and grabbed lunch with a bunch of Italians and I realized that my ticket says I need a male sleeping area. I tried emailing the company as they had to make the reservation directly in order for me to get the discount (thanks to my Eurail pass). No answer. I was told to checkin and board and then wait till we left and they'd see what they could do. Luckily the universe was on my side and they found a spare cabin that I had all to myself at no extra charge. I LOVE ALONE TIME!!! :)
 |
| The ferry/cruise boat...if I ever do a cruise I'm getting a balcony cabin |
The lessons
- Thanks to Mark Weaver for excellent travel advice. An old email from him I'd filed away in my travel one note was the source for must see stuff. It really paid off and I wish we'd made the Iceland trip happen :(. Thanks Mark!
- The final sunburn of Europe: When going on a walking tour you do not have the option of taking the shady side of the street. Always wear sunscreen and a hat.
- Back in college I was trying to understand the significant difference between literature written by men and by women which includes the fact that each sex seems to prefer their own writers. So a friend and I did the typical exchange of book titles with the guarantee to read them. He never read Pride and Prejudice but I did read Homage to Catalonia. I did not like it. But the lesson here is that even things you don't like and find little value in the moment do come in handy. In my case walking around Barcelona, it was helpful to understand how Spain's issues included a fair amount of foreign intervention.
 |
| Damage from the Spanish Civil War where many from around the world came to fight for their ideology |
Interesting
- When mom was here to visit she noticed that ham is everywhere. Usually it's the main sandwich option no matter what country you are in. In Spain there was an interesting explanation for this (and if anyone wishes to claim the best ham award, it's Spain's "jambon").
- The Spanish Inquisition was in charge of driving out the Jews and Muslims and after that was done they continued to harass the people as they speculated people weren't really Christians.
- To stop the harassment, people would have public displays of eating ham as a way to prove their Christianity.
 |
| Perfect place to have a ham sandwich? And the Inquisition to watch. Also supposedly where Columbus showed the King and Queen the treasures from the "new world" |
- Back at home, Courtney and I became connoisseurs of puzzles and wine. I was on the hunt for a Gaudi puzzle that would make us cry uncle, this is as close as I got but it didn't look hard enough...thank me later Courtney :)
- During the tapas tour I became very jealous of a Dane heading out to do the Camino. I had just finished Mike and Petra's account of their journey. I wish I were here at another time where the weather were more tolerable and I would do it. I think some day I must.
- Mike told me just to go to Santiago. Rick Steves said it was a joy to watch the pilgrims reach the city. I simply didn't have the time for that train ride either. Some day.
- I went out for Mexican food in Spain...hilarious and unfortunately not spicy.
- Many of my facebook friends claim that it's ludicrous not to eat the fruit in their Sangria but I've had Sangria with many of them and they don't eat the fruit...just saying.
- I spent some time in the train stations shopping since I usually arrived at the station without a ticket I'd just get on the next available train which could give me a few hours to roam around. Cool thing I've found: Body Shop has bath sized tea infusers…I need one!!! And a giant Ludwig sized bathtub, That's still my favorite of all baths, herb infused.
- They are really big on Columbus in Spain...
- The sport of Catalonia (state where Barcelona is located) is human castle building. This is the monument to castellers way less violent than bull fighting (banned in Catalonia)
